Duo Eyelash Adhesive – Black vs. Clear Glue -Does it Make a Difference?

Eyelash glueWhen it comes to applying false eyelashes, Duo Eyelash Adhesive is hands down the eyelash glue of choice by professional makeup artists.  There are a few others that exist but there is nothing that can compare to this brand.

Now this is where things get a little more tricky.  Duo offers a clear glue (it goes on white and dries clear) or a black glue.  So which is best?

The reason behind providing the choice of a black glue is that when it dries, it gives the appearance of wearing black eyeliner.  This saves a step from applying actual eyeliner if it already looks like you are wearing it.  As a concept, I think this is brilliant!

However, the glue can sometimes be a little messy and smudge or move around during the application.  This is where things can get sticky (figuratively) because fixing this is not easy.  It would look like smudged black eyeliner and once it dries, it is fully set.

This is why I always prefer the clear Duo Eyelash Adhesive.  Since it dries clear, it doesn’t show up.  Meaning if the glue smudges during the application, it does not matter as everything is hidden.  

The best technique when applying false eyelashes is to first apply all your eye shadow followed by lining the eyes on top (if you want to skip eyeliner altogether, this is an option too although I always think false lashes should be paired up with a little eyeliner).  Then you can go ahead and apply the false eyelashes over top the eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible.  I sometimes will also take it a step further and go over the top liner again once the glue is dried to make sure the eyeliner is extra smooth and defined.  I also like to do this as it conceals even more the fact that I applied a set of false eyelashes.

Given the choice, I will always recommend the clear Duo Eyelash Adhesive!

The Best Blush for Pink Undertone Complexions

MAC Sincere

MAC “Sincere” blush

Often times when I meet clients with a pink undertone to their skin (as opposed to an olive or yellow skintone), they naturally have a rosiness to their cheeks and do not always like the idea of wearing blush.

As a makeup artist, I find blush to be an absolute necessity in completing a look, whether it is a natural daytime look or for a special occasion.  Why?  Blush instantly makes the skin look more youthful, dewy, and attractive.  Everyone looks good with a little blush!

Even those with a pink undertone should wear blush but the key is using a shade that is not too bright or has too much pink to it.  I always choose a blush that appears almost colorless or one that might seem like it won’t show up too much because on someone with a pink undertone, even a sheer or very natural looking blush will show up because their natural rosiness to their complexion will shine through.

The best blush I recommend for someone who is fair and with a pink undertone is MAC’s “Sincere” blush.  This has a matte finish and shows up without looking too bright.  It gives just a hint of color while also adding some warmth to the face.

Filling in Eyebrows – Why I Recommend Powder

Anastasia Beverly Ebony brow duo.jpg
When it comes to eyebrows, it is an essential part of the makeup application to define them as it is said that the eyebrows frame the face–this is a very true fact.  By define, I mean fill them in or enhance their shape (usually by creating a slight arch).  People with naturally full eyebrows might not need to fill them in at all and would look into waxing and plucking them to define and shape them as opposed to filling them in with an eyebrow product.

There are many options when filling in the eyebrows including pencils which I would say is probably the most popular choice along with powders and gels.  As a professional makeup artist, I have always preferred to fill in eyebrows with a good angled brush and powder rather than a pencil or gel.

For starters, I think it is a much easier application to apply with a brush and powder as there is more control compared to using a pencil.  With a pencil, it can often make the brows have that drawn on appearance which can look too harsh and much less natural.

A great benefit to using a brow powder is that you can even use an eye shadow!  Most of the time, I use a matte eyeshadow from a MAC palette (colors such as Brun, Cork, and Expresso) to fill in my client’s brows.  It is nice to have a product that can be multi-purpose and in this case, an eye shadow and an eyebrow filler.

Brow powders also last MUCH longer than any other eyebrow product.  My last eyebrow powder lasted me over three years and this is when I essentially used it everyday.  A brow pencil is going to have about the same longevity of an eyeliner pencil.  If you are using it everyday, chances are you will go through it in about 3-6 months or potentially less time depending on how much you use each day.  A gel in a pot might last longer than a pencil but it still will not last for nearly as long as a brow powder would.  Also keep in mind if the gel and/or brow tint comes in mascara tube, this will also run out very quickly.

With an eyebrow powder, you also have a couple of ways of applying it to give you a different effect.  You can apply the product dry which will appear more natural or you can even slightly wet the angled brush and dip it into the brow powder. This method upon application to the eyebrows will appear slightly more defined and also provide a darker pigment.

Anastasia Beverly Ebony brow duo

Anastasia Beverly Brow Powder Duo – “Ebony”

Personally, I use the Anastasia Beverly Brow Duo in the combo “Ebony.”  I like that there are two shades so I can mix them.  To apply this product, I use the MAC #266 brush and apply it dry instead of wetting the brush for a softer appearance.

Anastasia Beverly offers a wide range of duos to choose from based on your hair color.  I highly recommend this product although as I mentioned previously, a good matte eye shadow will also work.

The Most Long-wearing Black Eyeliner Pencil

nars-via-veneto

NARS Larger Than Life Long Wear Eyeliner – “Via Veneto”

As a makeup artist, one of the most commonly asked questions I receive is, “What do you think is the most long-wearing black eyeliner?”  Many clients tell me that their eyeliner smudges and there is nothing out there that really lasts all day.

I’ll be honest, I think that most eyeliners, despite being classified as waterproof, are going to move a little bit within a few hours.  They might smudge slightly but they definitely should not run or just magically disappear by the end of the day.

It is definitely not uncommon for an eyeliner to smudge a little and I think it is just a normal thing that happens.  However, when someone tells me that absolutely nothing has worked for them and their eyeliner consistently runs no matter what they use, I recommend what I think to be the best smudge-proof black eyeliner pencil, the NARS Larger Than Life Long Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto.  (FYI, these pencils do come in various shades).

For starters, this eyeliner pencil glides on rather smoothly and it truly is a jet black type of black.  Some black eyeliners are not very black but this one definitely is which makes it exceptionally good when creating a more dramatic look.  An added perk is that this pencil is designed with a twist up applicator (meaning it does not need a sharpener in between uses) but does also come with a built in sharpener on the opposite end to provide a sharper tip if desired.

When using this pencil, I do want to mention that it is important to always put the cap back on after each application.  I have noticed that the pencil can get dry (and not apply as smoothly along with breaking off more easily) if the cap is not placed on after each use.

This is definitely a makeup kit essential!  I do not use this pencil on everyone as I do not think everyone is in need of a super smudge-proof eyeliner; however, for anyone who emphasizes that this is a makeup concern or is looking for a smokey eye effect, the NARS “Via Veneto” black eyeliner pencil is the best!

Best Foundation for Makeup Artist Kit – Cinema Secrets Ultimate Foundation 5-in-1 Pro Palette

cinema-secrets-palettesAs a makeup artist, I myself am always curious as to what foundation other makeup artists like to stock in their professional makeup kits.  With so many options today, I would say most makeup artists like to carry a few different options and that there is not necessarily one universal foundation brand that makeup artists respond as “the one and only foundation.”

Personally, I think less tends to always be more and I do not like to carry too many foundations in my kit.  Lately, most of my clients opt for the airbrush makeup application in which I strictly use Dinair, so carrying a ton of foundations is not a necessity in my makeup kit.

When I do a traditional makeup application (applied with a standard foundation brush and liquid/cream foundation), I tend to stick to Cinema Secrets Ultimate Foundation 5-in-1 Pro Palette.  This foundation truly is great!  Best of all, I actually have been using this around the time I first began my career in makeup artistry.  I discovered the brand the first time I attended The Makeup Show in NYC and have been pretty hooked since.

I like this foundation for many reasons.  For starters, it comes in a palette which in and of itself is much more convenient than carrying multiple bottles of foundations which can be bulky and heavy to carry around.  Secondly, being it is a cream consistency, it is very blendable and I can easily manipulate the coverage ranging from sheer coverage to more full coverage along with mixing the colors more easily to get the most accurate color match.  There are also many palette combos to choose from.  I own the 400, 500A, and 500B series which tends to cover most skintones.

Also, I use these palettes as my concealer palettes for undereye circles and other skin imperfections.  I am a huge believer than a good foundation can also serve the purpose of a concealer.

I highly recommend the Cinema Secrets foundation palettes to any professional makeup artist for the convenience and the quality.  I also want to mention that I do as a second option carry the NARS Sheer Glow foundation in my kit.  I own almost every shade as I like the color spectrum offered (especially for darker complexions) and the coverage is very smooth.

Brittany’s Bridal Makeup

brittany-makeup-1brittany-makeup-2

Brittany’s bridal makeup reminds me of Hollywood glamour.  She does not typically wear too much makeup but knew she wanted a red lip.  To balance the bold lip color, I kept the eyes soft with my choice of eyeshadow colors.  Even though the eyes are not too dramatic, they still stand out with black defined winged liner on the top and defined lashes.  She carries off the look beautifully as seen in the photos!

Complexion:  Maybelline Baby Skin Instant Pore Eraser Primer, Cinema Secrets Ultimate Foundation Palette (used as concealer), Dinair Glamour Airbrush Foundation in Alabaster and Light Golden Beige (mixed), Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder (to set the entire foundation), MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Medium Dark (for cheek contour), NARS Highlighting Blush in Albatross (cheek highlight), MAC blush in Sincere

Eyes:  MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Painterly, MAC eyeshadows:  Naked Lunch (lid), Retrospeck (brow highlight and little bit in inner corner of the eye), All That Glitters (crease), Folie (outer crease), MAC Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack (top liner winged), NARS Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Appia (bottom liner), Revlon false lashes in “Defining”, Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara in Very Black (top and bottom lashes), MAC eyeshadow in Omega and Cork (brows)

Lips:  MAC Pro Longwear Lipcolour in Perpetuate Flame [discontinued], MAC Lip Pencil in Cherry (this did not quite match the lip color so I had to mix it a little bit with another MAC cremestick lip liner in Raw Refined [discontinued]), and a little clear top coat gloss over it

Brittany makeup 3.jpg

The Purpose of Makeup Setting Spray and the Best One to Use

skindinavia-the-makeup-finishing-spray-oil-control

When applying makeup, it is important to consider the longevity and how long it is going to last throughout the day.  A professional makeup application is meant to stay from the moment of application til the end of the day.

One might wonder, what are some products used to ensure the makeup is going to last this long?  Aside from investing in good primers (both for the face and for the eyes), I do recommend getting a makeup setting spray which is used at the very end, immediately after the makeup application is complete.  It is also a very simple step as it is just sprayed lightly all over the face.

The purpose of a makeup setting spray is to lock in the makeup so it does not crease, transfer, disappear, or need any touch ups.  

The makeup setting spray I have been using for years and that I always keep stocked in my makeup kit is the Skindinavia Makeup Finishing Spray – Oil Control.  They do offer different variations of makeup finishing sprays that essentially do the same thing but I like to get the Oil Control because I think most people want their face makeup to stay relatively shine free and matte for the day.  Furthermore, this makeup setting spray ensures that the makeup will last for up to 16 hours.  What I love most about this spray is that it is lightweight (it does not feel sticky) and it has a patented temperature control technology that actually keeps the face cool which prevents shine to build up throughout the day.  I think that in itself is amazing!

 

Marci’s Bridal Makeup

20161007_121435.jpg20161007_121432

For Marci’s bridal makeup, we decided the day of to go even more dramatic with the eyes and add some purple hues.  We also opted for dramatic lashes that were long and full.  The final look was not only beautiful but ultra glamourous!

Complexion:  Maybelline Baby Skin Instant Pore Eraser Primer, Cinema Secrets Ultimate Foundation Palette (used as concealer), Dinair Glamour Airbrush Foundation in Light Golden Beige and Honey Beige mixed, MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Medium Deep (to set the entire foundation), MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Dark (for cheek contour), NARS The Multiple in Copacabana and NARS Highlighting Blush in Albatross (cheek highlight), MAC blush in Mocha (blush)

Eyes:  MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Painterly, MAC eyeshadows:  Jest (lid), Seedy Pearl (brow highlight and little bit in inner corner of the eye), Trax (crease), Shadowly Lady (outer crease), MAC Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack (top liner with slight wing), Rimmel ScandalEyes Waterproof Kohl Eyeliner pencil in black (bottom liner, applied a couple times for extra emphasis and drama), Callas false lashes #415 (I discovered these in a recent trip to California, these lashes are AMAZING), Sephora Outrageous Volume Mascara in Ultra Black (top and bottom lashes), MAC eyeshadow in Brun (brows)

Lips:  Maybelline Super Stay 24 Lip Color in Pink Blossom, Victoria’s Secret lip gloss in Watermelon Splash, MAC Lip Pencil in Soar

Ashley’s Bridal Makeup

img_20160401_16353020160401_130112

For this bridal look, Ashley expressed that she liked makeup and wanted it to be a little more dramatic, especially with more emphasis on the eyes.  She was also open to colors rather than just sticking to neutral eye shadows so we played with adding plums and peachy champagne tones for the eyes.  For the lips, she wanted a pink that would pop more for the photos and with lip liner, this also adds more depth.

Complexion:  Maybelline Baby Skin Instant Pore Eraser Primer, Cinema Secrets Ultimate Foundation Palette (used as concealer), Dinair Glamour Airbrush Foundation in Honey Beige, MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Medium Deep (to set the entire foundation), MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Dark (for cheek contour), NARS The Multiple in Copacabana (cheek highlight), NARS blush in Orgasm (blush)

Eyes:  MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Painterly, MAC eyeshadows:  Gleam (lid), Phloof (brow highlight and little bit in inner corner of the eye), Romp (crease), Sketch and Shadowly Lady (outer crease), MAC Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack (top liner, thin and slight wing upwards), Rimmel ScandalEyes Waterproof Kohl Eyeliner pencil in black (bottom liner, applied a couple times for extra emphasis and drama), Kiss false lashes #11, Sephora Outrageous Volume Mascara in Ultra Black (top and bottom lashes)

Lips:  Maybelline Super Stay 24 Lip Color in #770 Crystal Pink with a little clear gloss over it, MAC Lip Pencil in Soar

20160401_130848

 

NARS “Albatross” – My Absolute Favorite Highlighter & Makeup Must-Have

NARS Albatross.jpg

Often times as a makeup artist, I am asked what are some of my favorite products that I use on a daily basis along with in my professional kit.  This can lead to an overwhelming amount of answers as there are so many wonderful products to choose from but there is one single product that comes to mind and it is NARS “Albatross.”

Thankfully, I discovered this highlighter many years ago when I first began doing makeup and to this day, it is still my absolute favorite highlighter.  In my personal collection, I have a few highlighters that I work with but most days I end up wearing NARS “Albatross.”  It is subtle but still manages to pick up beautifully on the skin and especially in photography.

If you keep up with my blog, you will see it is evident I also use this almost every time I do a makeup application on my clients.  Even though it looks deceivingly very white, it actually shows up a sheer light gold.  Best of all, it works on essentially all skin tones!